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Camino Francés: Day 3 (Zubiri)

Zubiri, Spain, March 1


I made a friend today (from Amsterdam), and we walked most of the day together. It was a nice changeup from solo, and we had an early, candid conversation about both being ok if either of us wanted to break and get some time alone. Her companionship was comfortable: both the conversations and the walking in silence, matching pace. Occasionally, we’d meet others of our group who stayed at the monastery last night, making it feel more like I was part of a collective pilgrimage.



Today I did a full stage for the first time (having split stage #1 into two days). It seemed manageable enough at around 14+ miles with less than 1,500’ of elevation, and kept me in sync with last night’s group.


However, my right foot which has been bugging me has now completely ballooned, so I’m keeping it elevated every chance I get, even as I write. Less painful today, actually, than the past few, but it looks bad. I suppose it’ll take me a bit to “trail-harden.” I didn't expect it in just two days, but I had hoped for better than this on day #3.



My feet feel like they are taking a beating in my barefoot shoes. Even if it’s all I’ve worn for the past few years, it’s a little different with this much daily mileage and a pack. I’ve noticed that the hard, paved areas are the worst assault, so I dread the parts where I have to walk on the road or an asphalt/concrete trail. In contrast, the footpaths are blissful, despite being rocky in spots. Anything feels better than, quite literally, pounding pavement.


Hoping for better days ahead.

Also, noticing today that forced pauses, though uncomfortable and largely undesirable, can help me to slow down and breathe in the beauty of this place. This experience. That's its own sort of unexpected beauty: bending with the unexpected twists and turns thrown at me.




I might be working hard to stay optimistic, without real conscious thought. (Though it doesn't seem that I have much of a choice as I look at the hundreds of miles ahead.) I don’t know how long it’ll take me, but I'm determined that I’ll find a way to make it through to complete what I set out to do: walk the Camino Francés across the length of Spain to Santiago.




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